Toda forma de existencia humana entre el Bois de Vincennes y los montes Urales siempre me ha provocado una mezcla de tristeza y desinterés. Pero el eje Bélgica-Alemania-Austria, y más concretamente, lo bávaro-austriaco, me causa auténtico terror. Mi mujer es una gran exaltada de lo alemán, y siempre arremetió conta mi prejuicio anticentroeuropeo, para ella era una forma encubierta de estupidez y autocomplacencia latina. Por eso, para curarme de mi prejuicio, organizamos un pintoresco recorrido desde Viena a Munich, pasando por lagos, castillos, óperas, museos y grandiosos paisajes alpinos.
Aquel viaje no sólo no desintegró mis infundados prejuicios, sino que me provocó verdadero terror estético. Salvo el delirante universo particular de Ludwig II, todo lo demás me resultó verdaderamente empalagoso y hanselgreteliano, un mundo de orden puro, de pueblecitos armónicos, con las casas perfectamente distribuidas a lo largo de anchas y floridas avenidas, calles sin pintadas, carreteras sin baches, vayas bajas que parecen más decorativas que protectoras, balcones con una ordenada profusión de coloridas flores, acabados rústicos de madera siempre recién barnizada, coches limpios de gran cilindrada, lagos cristalinos de aguas puras, tenderas sonrientes, tiroleses de pantalón corto, coros de aficionados al canto en iglesias luteranas que conviven apaciblemente en comunidades mayoritariamiente católicas... Un mundo donde nada resulta amenazante, donde todo es pulcro, donde no hay ni rastro de basuras, donde no hay ruidos que impidan conciliar un sueño profundo a los vecinos y donde los niños pueden andar tranquilamente en bicicleta sin miedo a ser arrollados.
Aquel viaje no sólo no desintegró mis infundados prejuicios, sino que me provocó verdadero terror estético. Salvo el delirante universo particular de Ludwig II, todo lo demás me resultó verdaderamente empalagoso y hanselgreteliano, un mundo de orden puro, de pueblecitos armónicos, con las casas perfectamente distribuidas a lo largo de anchas y floridas avenidas, calles sin pintadas, carreteras sin baches, vayas bajas que parecen más decorativas que protectoras, balcones con una ordenada profusión de coloridas flores, acabados rústicos de madera siempre recién barnizada, coches limpios de gran cilindrada, lagos cristalinos de aguas puras, tenderas sonrientes, tiroleses de pantalón corto, coros de aficionados al canto en iglesias luteranas que conviven apaciblemente en comunidades mayoritariamiente católicas... Un mundo donde nada resulta amenazante, donde todo es pulcro, donde no hay ni rastro de basuras, donde no hay ruidos que impidan conciliar un sueño profundo a los vecinos y donde los niños pueden andar tranquilamente en bicicleta sin miedo a ser arrollados.
En todo ese orden y esa paz, no podía dejar de buscar los indicios del horror que se produjo allí mismo, hace 60 años. No podía dejar de pensar que los responsables de ese bello e inmenso jardín que es Austria y Baviera son en realidad los hijos y los nietos de aquella generación que perpetró los peores crímenes que recuerda Europa. Esta claro que los descendientes no tienen la culpa, y que es un gran mérito haber reconstruido aquel bello jardín, haber hecho propósito de enmienda y constricción de corazón, recuperar la decencia, etc... Pero la absoluta ausencia de cualquier mínimo indicio de brutalidad o desorden no hacía más que darme la sensación de que aquel era el escenario de un crimen cuyos autores se habían esmerado más que nunca por ocultar.
Uno pasea por los pueblos de España y no tiene ninguna dificultad para entender nuestros crímenes históricos, nuestra brutalidad, nuestra alma paleta. No hay nada más que ver los restos de los botellones un domingo por la mañana, las agresiones urbanísticas, las heces de los perros en las aceras, los muros de los pueblos con cristales rotos que corten los dedos de quienes los salten, para entender que fuimos un pueblo capaz de asesinar a Lorca, capaz de inspirar las pinturas negras de Goya y capaz de coronar cualquier fiesta al son de Paquito el Chocolatero. Lo peor de lo que fuimos capaces se intuye en el propio paisaje: no asustamos a nadie, nuestros crímenes son pasionales, chapuceros, sucios... a imagen y semejanza de la tapia jalonada de cristales rotos.
Pero lo germano causa terror por lo que esconde esa meticulosidad, esa pulcritud, ese deleite en la casa de Hansel y Gretel, el balcón florido, el traje tirolés y el coro de vecinos. No puedo dejar de buscar el reverso tenebroso en todo lo que oculta esa estampa de belleza alpina en la que tan minuciosamente se han borrado las trazas de cualquier seña de brutalidad, veo casas como la de la foto de arriba y pienso inevitablemente en que en cualquiera de ellas podría estar un sótano como el de Fritzl, el de Priklopil, o el de los tres bebés en el congelador.
"Yo crecí en la época nazi, cuando reinaba la disciplina y la obediencia. Probablemente adopté inconscientemente algo de aquello, pero no soy un monstruo"
–Josef Fritzl
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